Boiling Eggs

When I was four, our family traveled to Ontario to visit the Raos, who were close family friends. Just before dusk the first night, I managed to get lost in their subdivision. A neighbor heard me whimpering to her cat who was lounging in the driveway. I had thick black hair and a bangle encircling each wrist. She guessed that I was related to the Raos who were the only Indians on the block. To confirm her suspicion, she asked me what I liked to eat. Instead of  saying "curry," I responded with "Cookies and eggs." Thankfully, she called the Raos anyway.

I still get weak in the knees when I eat eggs, and am especially fond of  Eggs in Coconut Milk and Egg Roast. On the rare occasion when my fridge is near empty, I boil one up until its yolk is velvety and its white has a cushy softness. I sprinkle it with salt and pepper for breakfast in a flash.

It’s easy to overcook eggs. To avoid producing boiled eggs with rubbery whites and yellow-green yolks, follow these simple steps:

How to Boil Eggs 

Fresh eggs are often harder to peel than eggs that have been around for a week or so. So boil older eggs whenever possible. 

Place eggs in a saucepan in a single layer. Cover with an inch or so of cold water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat.

Remove the saucepan from the heat. Cover with a lid and let the eggs sit in the water for five minutes to make soft boiled eggs and 15 minutes for hard boiled eggs. 

How to Peel Boiled Eggs

Drain the water. Allow the eggs to cool for one minute until they are easy to hold. 

For soft boiled eggs: Carefully tap the top of the egg on a hard surface to crack the shell. Peel off the top third of the shell. Use a spoon to scoop out the cooked egg.

For hard boiled eggs: Crack the egg shells by gently rolling each egg against a hard surface with the palm of your hand. You can also cover the saucepan with a lid and slide it across your kitchen counter to crack the shells of the eggs inside. Hold each egg under cold water and peel off the shell, beginning at the wide end, which gives most easily.
 

Eggs in Coconut Milk

If  close my eyes, I can still picture my grandmother’s chicks in coats the color of well whipped butter. She tosses out a handful of grain and they bob about in a frenzy. 

By  the age of four, I had stood before the Taj Mahal, watched yards of sari silk unfurled, and seen goldsmiths handcrafting jewelry. And yet it was the chicks (and their free-wheeling brethren) that represented the beauty of India to me. I would have given anything to scoop one up.

During my first trip to Kerala, I encountered animals throughout the day. I woke to a rooster’s call, accompanied by the solemn sound of Muslim prayers. After breakfast, I got to touch a cow's jiggly udder. Her milk was churned into butter by mid-day. I kept an eye out for the neighbor’s goats, which appeared like magic, in search of tender leaves. Eyes alert. Heads held high.   

Fast forward more years than I care to admit, and nothing much has changed.  I have developed a deeper appreciation for India’s architectural and artistic wonders, but it’s still random encounters with animals that compel me the most. From poufy-bummed chickens pecking around the yard to free-range goats frolicking about to hulking elephants ambling down the road with their trainer. So much of life in India goes un-curated, and to me, that’s the most wondrous thing of all. 

EGGS IN COCONUT MILK

This dish is traditionally served with a fermented Syrian Christian bread called appam. In our family, they are served together for breakfast on Christmas and on Easter. When I'm strapped for time, I pair this dish it with white rice. Either way, it's delicious!

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

6 eggs

1 1/4 tablespoon coriander seeds

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/8 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 cloves

3 cardamom pods

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 cup water

2 tablespoons coconut oil

1/4 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

1 1/2 cups finely sliced onions

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons finely cut ginger

1 teaspoon finely cut garlic 

1/2 cup potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1-inch pieces

1 cup diced tomatoes

10 to 15 fresh curry leaves

1 cup coconut milk

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the eggs in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes. 

Peel the eggs and score lengthwise. 

Blend the coriander, cayenne, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and fennel in a coffee grinder or spice grinder.

Heat the oil in a medium size skillet over medium-low heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the onions and salt. Cook until they become translucent, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes. 

Add the curry leaves, potatoes, tomatoes, ginger, and garlic. Cook until the potatoes and tomatoes soften, about 15 minutes.

Add the spices to the onions and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water.

Add the eggs and stir gently. Add the coconut milk, stir, cover and cook on low for 5 minutes.  

Egg Roast

I traveled to India for the first time at the age of 4. There are photos of me squeezed between my siblings at the Red Fort of Agra and frolicking around the Taj Mahal in a gingham jumper. 

The monuments had no allure for me at the time. Instead, I marveled at being allowed to yell in my great grandfather’s ear without reprimand because he was hard of hearing. That had never happened before! I chased fluffy chicks in my  grandmother’s backyard and monitored tiny lizards (which I later referred to as dinosaurs) as they zipped across the wall.

Fortunately, our family visited the Taj and other historical treasures on subsequent trips. In Rajasthan, we peered through intricate marble screens that separate rooms at Amber Palace and dined at the Maharaja of Jaipur’s former hunting lodge. We trekked to the Ajanta Caves in Maharashtra to see ancient Buddhist paintings and explored the grounds of Padmanabhaswamy temple in Thiruvananthapuram.   

I was better able to appreciate the history and architectural splendor of India once I hit double digits. And yet, what really appealed to me was the chaos that helps to define my parent’s homeland. Traffic stopped without warning because of a wayward cow. Hulking lories weaved around chattering school children and overloaded scooters. The electricity came and went, slowing our movement and spotlighting the beauty of candlelight. 

EGG ROAST

Serves 4

It’s common to wake  up to the sound of crowing roosters in Kerala. By early morning, you’ll find them scritch-scratching in the yard with an entourage of chickens. Their eggs, which are as fresh as can be, are often used for Egg Roast. The full-flavored dish pairs well with savory pancakes (appam) or a serving of plain rice.

INGREDIENTS

6 eggs
2 cups finely sliced onions
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon cayenne
1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 cloves
3 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
3 tablespoons canola oil
1/8 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup diced tomatoes
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon salt
10 to 15 fresh curry leaves

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the eggs in a saucepan in a single layer. Cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Remove the saucepan from heat. Cover with a lid and let the eggs sit in the water for 15 minutes. 

Peel and score the eggs lengthwise at half-inch intervals.

Heat the oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the onions, ginger, and garlic. Lower the heat to medium-low and and cook until the onions are caramelized, about 20 minutes.

Blend the coriander seeds, cayenne, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom pods, and fennel seeds in a coffee grinder (used only for spices) or spice grinder. In a small bowl, stir the spices with 1 tablespoon of water to form a paste. 

Stir the spice paste into the onions and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until they soften completely, stirring frequently.

Add the salt and curry leaves and stir. Add the eggs and the remaining 1 tablespoon of water. Gently layer the eggs with the spiced onions and cook on low heat for five minutes.

Meringue Chocolate Chunk Cookies

I remember feeling bewildered the first time I ate a meringue cookie. I selected an alabaster-like star from behind a bakery counter. Within seconds, the cashier folded it in parchment and handed it to me. It felt weightless.

 
When I bit into the confection, I tasted sugar. That was it. And it was chalky. Not realizing I had eaten a mediocre cookie, I wrote off meringue for the next few years, inside and outside of my kitchen.

 
Thankfully, my sweet tooth and passion for baking, led me back to it. I found that if I followed a few simple guidelines, I could use meringue to produce a variety of elegant desserts, including the ever versatile, ever delicious meringue cookie.




Over time, I've paired meringue with toasted coconut, roasted walnuts, peppermint extract, graham crackers, and flirty purple food coloring. But, if you ask me, fine chocolate is it's best companion.

MERINGUE CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES
Makes 1 1/2 dozen cookies

INGREDIENTS

3 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon
2/3 fine sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
Cocoa for dusting

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oven to 175 degrees. Place parchment on two cookie sheets.

Place the egg whites in a large bowl. Beat on low speed until frothy on top.

Add the cream of tartar. Increase speed to medium and beat until the egg whites form soft peaks.

With the beaters still running, slowly pour in the sugar.

Increase the speed to high and beat until the egg whites form stiff peaks.

Add the vanilla and beat for 30 seconds.

Carefully fold in chocolate.

Spoon a teaspoon or so of batter onto the parchment paper. Leave an inch between each cookie.

Bake for 2 hours or until the cookies no longer stick to parchment.

Dust with cocoa.