Kerala Beef Puffs

When we were young, my parents used their mother tongue as a code language to discuss private matters. My ears always perked up when they switched from English to Malayalam, lowered their voices, and glanced in my direction. Eager to crack the code, I listened closely and picked out words I knew from their sing-song sentences. More often than not, my caveman understanding of the language led me nowhere. 

Over time, my parents spoke more and more Malay-English, making it easier for me to translate their tête-à-têtes. Unless it was British English. That just added a layer of confusion.

Who knew that to the Brits, gas is petrol, trucks are lories, cookies are biscuits, cafeterias are mess halls, pants are trousers, scarves are mufflers, purses are hang bags, shades are blinds, grades are marks, stewardesses are air hostesses, lawyers are solicitors, and apartments are flats?  And morons? Well, they're bloody fools!  

Forced to decipher what seemed like gibberish, I would eventually tune out to my parent's relief. 

KERALA BEEF PUFFS

In Kerala, puffs are turnovers made with a variety of fillings. My favorite version has spiced beef tucked inside. The flaky pies are wonderful as appetizers or served with a side salad.

Makes 20 to 22 

INGREDIENTS

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 cloves
4 cardamom pods
2 teaspoons coriander
2½ tablespoons oil
1 cup finely chopped onions
½ teaspoon salt
1 small potato, boiled and finely cubed
2 teaspoons minced ginger
½ teaspoon garlic powder
Pinch cayenne
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
2 tablespoons water
½ pound lean ground beef
14-ounce package puff pastry, defrosted
1 large egg, beaten

INSTRUCTIONS

Blend the cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom pods, and coriander in a spice grinder until finely powdered.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium low. Add the onions and salt. Cook until the onions become translucent, about 5 minutes. 

Add the ground spices, potatoes, ginger, garlic powder, cayenne, turmeric, and water. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

Add the beef and mix until thoroughly combined. Continue until beef is fully cooked, about 8 minutes. 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Lightly flour a cutting board and rolling pin. Lay one sheet of puff pastry on the board. Roll it into a large square. 

Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut the pastry dough into twelve squares.   

Layer a teaspoon of beef filling in the center of each piece of dough. 

Using your index finger, spread a thin layer of beaten egg along the edges of the dough. 

Fold each piece of dough to form a triangle. Press the edges with with a fork to seal in the filling. 

Place the filled dough on two cookie sheet covered in parchment. 

Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. 

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Looking for adventure?
Join us for a Culinary Tour of Devon Avenue.

Over Memorial Day, my partner Chris and I traveled west to attend my cousin Mithu’s wedding. The ceremony took place at the Fort Mason Center, which overlooks the San Francisco Bay. After the couple said their “I dos,” we stood in the sun, sipping Cochin Gin and Tonics flavored with a pinch of cardamom. Waiters wooed us with pan-fried plantains and melt-in-your-mouth ceviche. The hors d'oeuvres were followed by platters of perfectly seasoned tacos. Drunk with happiness (and booze), we embraced day five of our royal treatment.

As guests, we had been treated like royalty the moment we landed in California. My Uncle Mathew and Aunt Anu insisted on providing us with curb side pickup at the airport. They fed us scratch cooked meals three times a day (which included dosa and sambar, appam with egg roast, and barbequed tandoori chicken with potatoes). In between, we snacked on homemade beef cutlets and samosas from Trader Joe’s. In the evenings, my Uncle cracked open several bottles of wine to wash it all down.

Over the course of our stay, neither of us lifted a finger or spent a dime. It reminded me of trips to India where hospitality means everything.

BEEF CUTLETS

Thanks to its Christian population, Kerala is one of two states in India that allows for the consumption of beef. In our family, Beef Cutlets are a staple at family reunions and large celebrations. Preparing them is a multi-stepped process. But don’t worry. I’m sure you (and your guests) will find that it’s worth every bite.

Makes 30

INGREDIENTS

2 medium Idaho or Russet potatoes
2 pounds 90% lean angus beef
2 (2-inch) cinnamon sticks
16 cardamom pods
16 cloves
1/2 cup water
1 1/4 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
20 black peppercorns
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil plus 2 cups for frying
2 cups finely chopped onions
1 small serrano pepper, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely minced ginger
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 eggs
2 1/2 cups bread crumbs

INSTRUCTIONS

Boil the potatoes until fork tender. Cool. Peel and mash.

Place the beef, cinnamon sticks, 12 cardamom pods, 12 cloves, and water in a medium sized saute pan. Cook on medium low heat for about 20 minutes or until the beef is thoroughly cooked. Transfer the beef to a colander to drain the fat. (This helps to ensure that the beef patties will hold together.)

Blend the remaining cardamom pods, cloves, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and black peppercorns in a spice grinder until they form a fine powder.

Heat the oil in a medium sized saute pan on medium low heat. Add the ground spices and cook for 1 minute. Add the onions, serrano pepper, ginger, and salt. Cook until the onions turn translucent, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add the cooked beef to the onion mixture and stir to combine. Add the potatoes and mash all of the ingredients together to fully incorporate the potatoes.

Shaped the mixture into 30 2-inch patties and place them on cookie sheets.

Place the eggs in a small bowl and beat together. Place the bread crumbs in a small bowl.

One by one, coat each patty with eggs and then bread crumbs. Before transferring a patty to the bread crumbs, hold it above the bowl of beaten eggs to allow any excess to drain off. When the bread crumbs become clumpy (which will happen after you’ve dipped enough patties), add a few more tablespoons of bread crumbs to refresh bowl. Also, your fingers will become breaded at some point. Rub off the coating over the garbage or sink periodically.

 

Layer two cookie sheets with paper towels.

Heat 2 cups of oil in a fry pan over medium high heat. Place a pinch of the bread crumb egg batter in the pan. When it rises to the top and bubbles, the oil is ready to use.

Carefully lower 4 patties into the oil. Flip immediately with a slotted spoon (otherwise the breading will crack). Cook until teddy bear brown.

Place on the cookie sheets to cool.

To reheat cutlets: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not microwave cutlets as the breading becomes soggy.

Aloo Bonda (Potato Fritters)

When we travelled to Kerala in the 80s, my dad always hired a driver for about a week so we could visit extended family, morning to night. We stayed at each house for about an hour and ended up stuffed with fried cuppa and avalose unda. The hot tea was milky and free flowing. On occasion, when we tried to take leave, the hostess would declare that she had just killed a free-range chicken, which had been pecking about the yard.  That move always delayed our departure for a few hours.

I loved watching the world from the back seat of the Hindustan Ambassador, which flew by as a riot of tropical green. At some point, we would see an elephant walking along the road with his trainer, and my siblings and I would scream out, “There’s an E-L-E-P-H-A-N-T!!!” The driver would chuckle wondering, no doubt, “What’s with these crazy Americans?”

When we crossed from the countryside into town, we would pass a main street with a tangle of open-air shops and a movie poster of Mammooty dressed in a mundu. The snack stands sold bananas galore, soda water in hefty glass bottles, and packs of beedi. On a hot day, we would indulge in a bottle of Campa Cola or Orange Crush. Around the corner, there would be a tea shop selling idli, dosa, and a variety of fritters.

ALOO BONDA

Makes 20 to 25


When you crave the comfort of potatoes, try this snack. The crust is crisp and light. The festively colored filling is full of flavor. Be sure to eat the spicy potato fritters while they are still warm.

INGREDIENTS

¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon chickpea flour
½ cup water
1¼ teaspoons salt
2½ cups plus 1 tablespoon canola oil
¼ teaspoon brown or black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon skinned and split urad dhal (black gram)
1 cup finely diced onions
2 tablespoons minced ginger
Half a small jalapeno, quartered
½ cup diced tomatoes
2 cups potatoes, boiled, peeled, and cut into 2-inch pieces
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons minced cilantro
1 cup frozen peas

INSTRUCTIONS

In a small bowl, whisk together the chickpea flour, water, and ¼ teaspoon of salt. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the urad dhal and cook until it turns honey brown.

Add the onions, ginger, jalapeno, and stir. Cook until the onions become translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and stir until they soften, about 5 minutes.

Add the potatoes, turmeric, garlic powder, cumin, cilantro, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt.

Add the peas. Remove the jalapeno. Roughly mash the mixture with your hands leaving some of the potatoes in chunks.

Roll the spiced potatoes into 2-inch balls.

Line a large plate with paper towels.

Heat the remaining 2½ cups of oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. Add a drop of the batter to the oil. When it rises to the top and bubbles around the edges, dip 4 or 5 of the balls in the batter, coating them completely.

Lift out with a fork to allow excess batter to run off, and carefully place in the hot oil.

Cook until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on the paper towels to cool. Repeat with the rest of the potatoes and batter.

Serve immediately.

Lentil Wafers

LENTIL WAFERS

Serves 6

Crisp as a potato chip, lentil wafers (pappadam) bring texture the table. In Kerala, they share the stage with simple dhal dishes, regal biriyani, and everything in  between. Most home cooks buy the uncooked wafers and fry them at home. Being very thin, they cook quickly. Give them your undivided attention to ensure that they don’t burn. 

INGREDIENTS

12 lentil wafers (pappadam)
2 cups canola oil

INSTRUCTIONS

Cover a large plate or colander with paper towels. 

Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. 

Add a tiny piece of an uncooked lentil wafer to the oil. When it rises to the top and bubbles around the edges, slip a whole wafer into the oil. The wafer will expand one and a half times almost immediately. 

Flip the wafer with tongs or a fork and cook the other side for a few seconds. Continue to flip until both sides are golden brown. 

Remove from the oil. Hold over the skillet for a few seconds to allow excess oil to drip off. 

Place on paper towels to cool. Repeat with the rest of the wafers. 

Dhal Fritters

Dodging bicyclists, mopeds, and pedestrians, Kerala’s rickshaws and taxis offer a nonstop thrill ride. If you prefer the slow and steady but still adventurous, I suggest taking the train. The windows have bars, but no glass, and each train car has turbo charged fans welded to the ceiling. You can watch the lush countryside streaming by, and feel a whoosh of jungle air before it gets chopped up by steel blades.



When your stomach starts to grumble, you’ll hear the sound of auctioneers stalking the aisles. "Chai, chai, chaiii!" (“Tea, tea, tea!”) "Kappi, kappi, kappiii!” (“Coffee, coffe, coffee!) “Vada, vada, vadaiii!” (“Fritters, fritters, fritters!) Or could they be food peddlers? 



Of all the sights and sounds that Kerala produces, the parade of noisy railway venders is by far my favorite. In the old days, the vendors waited on the platform at each station. When a train stopped, they would start their pulsing chorus. Riders shoved rupees through the windows in exchange for cups of frothy coffee or tea served in steel cups and a variety of fried snacks. If you leaned close enough to the window, you could watch the beverage vendors pouring the tea between two cups held two feet apart to produce froth. Don't try that at home! Before the train pulled away, the cups were passed back to be washed and filled for the next wave of riders.



Now the vendors board the train, dressed in neatly pressed uniforms. American snack foods – which have helped to make much of the world obese – are part of their offerings. Thankfully the oldies still endure: “"Chai, chai, chaiii!" "Kappi, kappi, kappiii!” “Vada, vada, vadaiii!” 



CHANNA DHAL FRITTERS

Makes 18 to 20

Crunchy on the outside and cushiony inside, parippu vada is my favorite fried snack. They are made with channa dhal, ginger, and chilies. Think of them as a spiced up falafel served aside freshly plucked bananas, if you're lucky. 
 

INGREDIENTS

1½ cups skinned and split channa dhal (Bengal gram)
1/4 cup water

2 small dried red chilies, roughly chopped

3/4 cup finely diced onions

2 tablespoons minced ginger

1 teaspoon salt

Two dashes of asafetida (optional)

10 to 15 fresh curry leaves, torn into 1/4 inch pieces

2½ cups canola oil for frying

INSTRUCTIONS

Place the dhal in a medium size bowl. Cover it with water and soak for at least 4 hours. (The dhal will expand as it softens). Rinse and drain.

Place half of the soaked dhal and water in a food processor. Pulse it for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides. 

Add the dried red chilies and pulse until the dhal is very finely chopped and almost forms a paste.

Add the rest of the soaked dhal to the food processor and pulse until it is very roughly chopped, 5 to 10 seconds. The dhal should clump when you squeeze it in your palm.   

Transfer the dhal to a medium size bowl. Add the onions, ginger, salt, asafetida, and curry leaves, and mix together. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Place a couple of paper towels on a large plate. Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add a pinch of the seasoned dhal to the oil. When it rises to the top and bubbles around the edges, lower the heat to medium.

Place a tablespoon of the dhal on the palm of your hand and shape it into a loose ball. Gently flatten it into a disk about 1/2-inch thick. Carefully sculpt together the edges with the side of your free hand.  

Place it into the oil. For 4 more disks and add them to the oil one by one.

Fry them for 4 minutes on each side or until they are golden brown. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and cool on the paper towels.  Repeat with the rest of the seasoned dhal.

Serve warm or reheated in a toaster oven.

Roasted Squash Seeds

 
When my younger cousin was in grade school, her mom always prepared the Thanksgiving turkey. After the holiday, she would exchange stories about the elaborate meal with her classmates. For some reason, the turkey that her friends described always seemed much bigger than the one her family ate. When she questioned her mom about the discrepancy, she reassured her.

"I always make a turkey."

The year my cousin learned to read she walked into the kitchen when her mom was prepping the big bird. Skeptical, she cross-examined her mom about the pinkish poultry. Her mom insisted that it was a turkey. Unconvinced, my cousin dragged a chair to their kitchen counter.

Gazing down, she read the label out loud: "C-H-I-C-K-E-N!"

When I heard about my aunt's mischief, I felt redeemed. I love to host guests for Thanksgiving, but don't enjoy roasting the turkey. Luckily, for the last several years other family members have taken on that task. So I can devote my attention to preparing sides and dessert.

After visiting the farmer's market, I often carry acorn squash decorated in orange and green. They are lovely roasted with a thin layer of olive oil. However, it's the roasted seeds, which taste like freshly made popcorn, that draw everyone to the table for a pre-Thanksgiving dinner snack again and again.

ROASTED SQUASH SEEDS

Rinse the seeds and layer them on a paper towel to air dry.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees.

Sprinkle the seeds with olive oil and season them with salt.

Cook until the seeds turn light brown.
 

Samosa Inspired Tartlets

My parents entertained a lot when we were kids. The day of a dinner party, my mom would pat ground beef into cutlets and whack apart a whole chicken for biryani. She would fry papadum, one by one, and stir together a bowl of raitha. For dessert, she would roll out dozens of little footballs from a milk-based dough (her signature shape for gulab jaman), fry them, and soak them in a simple syrup perfumed with cardamom and rose water. She never referred to recipes while she cooked.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

When I walked into the kitchen after completing a task I had been assigned (dusting shelves, vacuuming stairs, polishing mirrors), she would accost me with questions.

"Does the rice have enough salt?" "Are the cutlets too hot?"

By mid-day, there was desperation in her voice.

"Did I fry enough papadum???"

My mom always felt trapped in the kitchen. But she had standards to uphold. I had seen it in India. My aunts served multiple courses and pulled everything together from scratch. They closely monitored guests as they ate and plopped servings of rice on half-filled plates. When glasses were emptied, they were quick to fill them.

Thirty minutes before the dinner party was supposed to start, my mom would put the mop away and fold up wet dish towels. My dad would put the needle on a record of belly dancing music and bring out the wine glasses.

Their guests would always stay well into the night. I took it as a sign that my parents had done something right.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2010)

SAMOSA INSPIRED TARTLETS

(2010 Cardamom Kitchen LLC All Rights Reserved)

I've preserved my mom's three-course tradition. It charms and baffles my guests since so few people seem to cook these day. But I have tweaked my mom's menu to make it my own. I serve a lighter starter: samosa inspired tartlets. They are faster to make than cutlets and less filing than regular samosas. The phyllo cups offer a wonderful crunch. If you're in a hurry, skip all the spices except for cumin, garlic, cayenne and salt.

Makes 12 tartlets

INGREDIENTS

For tartlets:

6 sheets phyllo dough

For filing:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup boiled and cubed potatoes

1/2 cup diced onion

1/2 teaspoon finely minced ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/8 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas

2 teaspoons finely diced cilantro

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Unwrap six sheets of phyllo from the roll. Keep the sheets stacked and place them on a cutting board. Using kitchen scissors, cut out 12 3 inch x 3 inch squares from the dough. Gently push a square of phyllo in each cup of a miniature muffin tin.

Bake until the cups become golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Gently remove the cups from the tin. Time saver: The phyllo cups can be baked up to one month ahead. Store them in an air tight container at room temperature. Do not put them in the refrigerator. The moisture will cause the cups to soften and wilt.

Heat the oil on medium heat in saucepan. Add the onions and ginger and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the cumin, garlic powder, garam masala, turmeric, cayenne, and salt. Cook for another 5 minutes.

Add the potatoes and peas. Cook until the peas become bright green, about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in the cilantro. Cool.

Place the phyllo cups on serving plate and fill them with the potato mixture.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)