Prepping Shrimp

Chicago is miles away from the ocean. And although I love its magnificent architecture and fun-loving folk, sometimes I long for the briny breath of the sea. On occasion, I travel to the coast or go abroad to reach its salty waters, but more often, I look for simple ways to bring its flavorful bounty into the kitchen.

I enjoy feasting on an array of seafood: crab, scallops, lobster, squid, or clams. But in the Windy City, shrimp is often the easiest to find. I love to sauté it with cayenne, black pepper, and chunks of coconut, but it’s just as easy to deep fry, boil, or barbecue the quick-cooking crustacean. During Lent, dishes like this Kerala Fried Shrimp make meatless meals a small sacrifice.  

How to Select Shrimp

When you smell raw shrimp, it should remind you of a stroll by the sea. If it hints of ammonia, it's spoiled - walk away. Look for shells that are clean, shiny, and free of spots. If possible, opt for whole shrimp, which has more flavor and spring texturally than its shelled and deveined counterpart. Whole shrimp is surprisingly easy to prep using the tips below.

How to Peel Shrimp

Shrimp is most often sold with the head removed. The translucent shell and, in most cases legs, are left intact. Although there are many ways to peel shrimp, I like to noodle my fingers just underneath the opening of the shell and carefully pull it away from the flesh as if I’m removing a tight-fitting life jacket.

I also run my finger under the tail shell and gently lift it off to keep the flesh just beneath intact.

How to Devein Shrimp

A shrimp's intestine looks like a dark vein, which runs along its back. Since the intestine can have a gritty texture and an off-putting flavor, it’s best to remove it using a process called "deveining."Here's how you do it...Place the shrimp on a cutting board with the tail closest to you. With a paring knife, make a shallow slit along the curve of the shrimp’s stomach.

Pull out the intestine with the tip of the knife and discard. 

How to Butterfly Shrimp

Place the peeled shrimp (with the tail shell intact) on a cutting board with the tail closest to you.
With a paring knife, make a deep cut along the curve of the shrimp’s stomach, nearly dividing it in two. 

Remove the intestine with your fingers or the tip of the knife. Gently pull the shrimp open so the flesh lays flat.

Kerala Fried Shrimp

At the heart of winter, when Chicago skies are still sullen, I like to reminisce about trips to the  beach.  Among those memories, one of my favorites is a family vacation we took to Kovalam, Kerala. I was ten at the time, and vexed to be spending so much of my summer vacation in India. Back in the Midwest, my friends were playing Jacks, biking with abandon, and plotting to win over all the cute boys.

By the time our family got to Kovalam, we’d spent hours shuffling between a tangle of relatives squeezed in the back of Ambassadors fitted with bony seats. We’d been stuffed with rice, charred by the sun, and pelted by thunderous monsoon rain. We were in need of respite. 

What we came upon back in the eighties, was a mellow beach town that borders the Arabian Sea. We kicked off our chappals (sandals), crossed the warm yellow-white sand, raised our skirts modestly, and frolicked in the low-tide. 

 

In the evening, we dined on shrimp and other freshly caught seafood that so deftly defines Kerala cuisine. Afterwards, we fell into bed with our stomachs full.  

Around 3 a.m., the electricity got cut. The fans stopped working, and we became a Smorgasbord for a hoard of mosquitoes making it impossible to sleep. With no end to the onslaught in sight, we got dressed and headed back out the beach just into time to catch the ghostly silhouettes of local fishermen heading out for their first catch.   

KERALA FRIED SHRIMP

Serves 4 

It took me a couple of years to realize that hot peppers are my mom’s secret weapon. They not only add heat to her culinary repertoire, they heighten the flavor of other ingredients, much like salt. Cayenne plays the starring role in my mom’s recipe for fried shrimp. For added flavor, puree the shallots and mix them into the marinade before coating the shrimp. 

INGREDIENTS

2½ teaspoons cayenne
3/4 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons water
1 pound shrimp, shelled and deveined
2 large shallots roughly chopped (optional)
2 cups canola oil

INSTRUCTIONS

In a small bowl, mix the cayenne, garlic powder, salt, and turmeric. Add the water and mix to form a thick paste. 

Place the shrimp in a medium sized bowl. Rub it with the paste, thoroughly coating each piece. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 

Line a large plate with paper towels. Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium high heat. 

Place the shallots and several shrimp in the oil and lower the heat to medium. Cook until the shrimp become opaque, turning them in the oil to ensure even cooking. 

Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon and place them on the paper towels to cool. 

Repeat until all the shrimp is cooked. Remove the shallots with the last batch of shrimp.