Green Bean Thoran

In the winter, I thank my lucky stars for green beans. The grocery store varieties taste remarkably similar to their farmer's market cousins. (If only that were true of the tomatoes. I stay far away from them.)

On most occasions, I give beans a quick stir-fry with a dash of garlic and some salt. But during a recent trip home, my mom spoiled me with her much more full-flavored green bean thoran. Like other thorans, the dish gets much of its richness from unsweetened coconut. What makes green bean thoran really unique though is the way the beans are cut in short segments. The shape offers a little more chew and a little more give in every bite. Sounds strange, but I swear it's true.

Traditionally, the final step of the green bean thoran recipe calls for flavoring oil with mustard seeds and sauteing the steamed beans in the oil. My mom (who hates to cook, but always tends to my belly) suggested I share this more simple yet still yummy version! Enjoy!

GREEN BEAN THORAN
(COPYRIGHT 2012)

Serves 4 to 6

 

INGREDIENTS

1/2 pound green beans
1/4 cup finely chopped onions
1/2 a jalapeno, seeded and roughly chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 freshly ground cumin
2 tablespoons shredded unsweetened coconut
Salt to taste
Dash of turmeric
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon coconut oil or canola

INSTRUCTIONS
 
Trim the ends off of the beans.

Line four to five beans together on a cutting board.

Slice them into very short segments.

Place the beans, onion, pepper, garlic, cumin, coconut, salt, turmeric, and water in a saucepan. Stir.

Bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes. Stir again.

Cook until the water has evaporated, about 3 minutes.

Mix in the oil.

Serve with white rice and yogurt.

Spinach Thoran

 

I hosted some friends for lunch on Easter. Being a dessert lover, I prepared the menu in reverse order, beginning with egg-shaped mini chocolate cakes soaked with framboise eau-de-vie and drizzled with ganache.
 

For the main course, I made basmathi rice, spinach thoran (sauted spinach), and fish mappas (mild fish curry). I was a little worried about serving the thoran after one of my guests said that she tries to avoid spicy food! Turns out, I had no reason to fret. It was the star of the meal.
 

If you're looking for a flavorful way to make spinach (a superfood with lots of potassim), try my mom's recipe included below. A few tips:

• Twelve cups of spinach may sound like a lot, but it shrinks considerably when cooked.
• Dry out the spinach leaves before cooking them or you'll end up with a soggy dish.
• Increase the heat to medium high when you add the spinach, or again, you'll end up with soggy spinach.
• You'll develop the best flavor profile using fresh spinach. However, to save time, you can substitute the fresh spinach with three cups of frozen spinach that has been thawed. Start with the second step if you use frozen spinach. Substitute the fifth step with: "Add the thawed spinach and cook until it begins to loosen. Stir to blend the spinach and onion mixture."

SPINACH THORAN

2009 Cardamom Kitchen LLC All Rights Reserved

Serves 5 to 6

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons canola oil

1/4 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 tablespoon urad dhal

1 cup finely sliced onion

2 dried red chilies

12 packed cups fresh spinach

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds

Dash of turmeric powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut

INSTRUCTIONS

Wash and drain the spinach. Set it aside to dry or pat the leaves with a paper towel to absorb excess water. Chop.

Heat the oil in a large saute pan on low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover.

When the mustard seeds begin to pop, add the urad dhal. Cook until the dhal turns light brown.

Add the onions and red peppers. Increase heat to medium and cook until the onions are translucent.

Add the spinach. Increase the heat to medium high. Cover and cook until the leaves begin to wilt. Stir to blend the spinach and onion mixture.

Add the garlic powder, cumin powder, turmeric powder, salt, and stir. Continue to cook until the spinach is completely wilted.

Going "Home"

A Long Way Up - Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

In December, I traveled 8,000 plus miles to Kerala, the place my older relatives still refer to as "home." Though I never lived with its borders, the tiny state on the southwest tip of India shaped my food identity. This journey would be different from the five I had taken before. I would be traveling without my parents - as tour guides, translators, experts on etiquette, and reservoirs of family history. In the past, they had shared unwritten rules (you'll shock people when you use your left hand) and in their company I never worried about taking a rickshaw across town. They provided directions. When strangers pinched me on the cheek and asked, "Do you remember me?" - a dizzying question given the branchiness of our family tree - my mom provided the answer. "This is your maternal grandmother's sister's second cousin's daughter."

During the eleven years since my last sojourn to Kerala, I had sharpened my kitchen skills in culinary school. I had also documented many of my mother's recipes, trying to preserve what seems like a dying art. I numbered steps and quantified murky measurements. Two "dashes" of turmeric became a fourth of a teaspoon and I deciphered "a 2-inch piece of ginger" as being "a generous tablespoon."

Over the intervening years, I had also recognized that many mainstay Kerala dishes - such as sambar (dahl stew), idiappam (rice noodles), and the vast array of thorans (stir-fried dishes) - were deliciously low-fat. I hoped to share the recipes I collected to help chip away at the obesity epidemic current raging in the states.

Cabbage Vendor - Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

I wanted to use this trip to gather recipes from relatives still in India. I also wanted to study the origins of the Kerala pantry. To see firsthand how and where the native berries, seeds, and roots that give Malayalee food its vibrancy grew. I knew that for centuries Kerala was the world’s only source of peppercorns and that the prized berries had spurred the region’s maritime trade predating the Kubla Khan. But I wanted to know what they looked like on the vine. (I vaguely remember my father pointing them out in the yard of his family home years ago. But sadly, what registered in my adolescent mind, “Zzzzz. Boring!”) I would also seek out cardamom growing wild in the mountains. Its exotic oils perfume Kerala’s sweet and savory dishes. Over time, the spice has also found its way into Middle Eastern coffee and Swedish pastries.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2010)

I knew my pursuit would conjure up memories of my grandmother’s dimly lit kitchen where I watched in wonder as she fed dried coconut husks to an open fire. Their brown hairs flashed like threads of lightening once ignited. Using the back of a cleaver, she would crack open the shells of coconuts harvested from the lanky trees dotting the yard. Sitting on a low wooden bench fitted with a serrated blade, I happily shredded the flesh into a triangular hill of coconut confetti that ended up in many family dishes that I'll be sharing with you including the cabbage thoran below.

CABBAGE THORAN

(Cardamom Kitchen LLC - Copyright 2011)

Serves 6

TIPS

- Warning: I've gotten greedy at the farmer's market and chosen the largest possible cabbage. I end up with WAY more shredded cabbage than I need. The leaves are tucked tightly. Chopping loosens them and the quantity seemed to grow exponentially! So don't make this mistake.

- Do not overcook the cabbage. It should be served with a bit of a crunch.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons olive oil or canola oil

3/4 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon urad dahl (black graham, split)

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 cup onion, thinly sliced

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon turmeric
I jalapeno, split, seeded and quartered
10 curry leaves (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

4 cups shredded cabbage

2 tablespoons shredded, unsweetened coconut

INSTRUCTIONS

1) Heat the oil in a large saute pan on medium-low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover.

2) When the mustard seeds begin to pop, add the urad dhal. Cook until the urad dhal turns light brown.

3) Increase the heat to medium. Add the garlic, onions, cumin, turmeric, pepper, curry leaves, and salt. Cook until the onions are translucent.

4) Add the cabbage and coconut. Stir to coat with the spice mixture.

5) Cover and cook for 1 minute.

6) Remove the lid and stir. Cover and cook for another minute.

7) Remove the lid and cook uncovered until the cabbage is tender, but retains a bit of crunch.