When I was seven, I received a copy of Cricket’s Cookery from my Uncle Matthew. Inside the front cover, he penned the following directive in a curly-cued script that tangoed across the page:

“To Susan, help your Momie in need. Here is a good cookbook for you. Hope you will make some of the recipes.

Love,
Machayan
Christmas 1977”

Cricket's Cookery turned out to be the perfect gift for a child enthralled by her mom's sorcery in the kitchen and eager to enter its fold. At a half inch thick, it was easier to hold than the culinary tomes that anchored our book shelf. Inside it offered recipes for Roly-Poly Pancakes, Mighty Meatballs, Yum-Yum Stew, and other silly sounding dishes. 

The instructions for many of the recipes were meant to be sung out loud, a bonus for someone already apt to break into song. 

The Rainy Day Popcorn, for example, was to be prepared “…to the tune of Old MacDonald Had a Farm.” 

Its instructions begin like this:

“Put oil and corn into the pot.
E-I-E-I-O!
Cover pot and heat till hot.
E-I-E-I-O!
With a Pop! Pop! here and a Pop! Pop! there.
Here a Pop! There a Pop! Everywhere a Pop! Pop!”

For me, the underlying message was cooking could be loads of fun. 

With my mom's help, I baked Oh, My Darling Sugar Cookies, Sugar Crumb Pies, Apple Doodle, and the other desserts, greasing pans and packing brown sugar along the way. I cracked open eggs and fished out shards of shells from whirly waves of butter, again and again.

Over time, I became the family baker and my mom focused on dishes prepared with palm fulls and pinches versus carefully measured ingredients. 

I have rolled out thousands of cookies and baked hundreds of cakes since unwrapping Cricket's Cookery's beneath a tinsel-laden tree. Its cover is bandaged with scotch tape and its back pages are wrinkled from water spills. Even so, it continues to be one of my most cherished culinary companions.

Spiced Pumpkin Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 12

If you're looking for a delicious holiday dessert, try making these moist, perfectly spiced little cakes! This recipe calls for many of the basic techniques I learned while cooking from Cricket's Cookery. Trader Joe’s carries candied pumpkin seeds, which add a lovely bit of crunch. If you can't track them down, use salted pumpkin seeds instead. 

INGREDIENTS

2 eggs
1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup sunflower oil
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 cup butter
4 ounces cream cheese
2 cups powdered sugar
Candied pumpkin seeds

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the eggs in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle. Blend until eggs are fluffy. 

Add the pumpkin puree, oil, and vanilla. Blend until thoroughly combined.

Place the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and cloves in a medium bowl.

Spoon half of the dry ingredients into the mixing bowl. Blend until just combined. Repeat with the remaining dry ingredients.

Fill 12 cupcake liners 3/4 way full. 

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Cool completely. 

Place 1 teaspoon vanilla, butter, cream cheese, and powdered sugar in a standing mixer and beat until fluffy. 

Frost cupcakes and top with candied pumpkin seeds.

Mango Lassi Pops

As a child, I remember watching incredulously as my mom waved off Oreos and ice cream in favor of fresh mangoes from the international grocery store. She would walk into the house giddy after shopping. It was a sure sign that the aromatic fruit was in season as my mom loathes shopping. 

While we kids munched on packaged desserts, she would prep the plump pods. In the time it took us to scarf down two cookies, she would remove the green-red skin and oust the seed. Then, she would hold the saffron-colored flesh in her palm, and, with the deft of a seasoned surgeon, chop it into bite-sized chunks. (Really, why use a cutting board?)

Afterwards, my mom would pass the bounty around the table. It was the kindest of gestures considering that both she and my father coveted the fruit of their youth (which grows alongside papaya, jackfruit, and plantains in Kerala). Between bites, they would recount jockeying with their siblings for any fruit that had been left clinging to the seed. 

I always took a pass when the plate reached me as the manga had a perfumy scent that seemed more suitable for wearing than consuming. (It’s an aversion that I outgrew as an adult.) Thankfully, that left more for my parents to devour, which they did, in a matter of minutes. 

MANGO LASSI POPS

Serves 6

If you like mango lassi, you will love these popsicles. The combination of mango and cardamom creates an elegant, ethereal  flavor. I use canned mango pulp rather than fresh mangoes as it can be hard to find well-ripened fruit throughout the summer. Check the ingredients on the can or taste the pulp to figure out if it has added sugar. Then sweeten accordingly. 

INGREDIENTS

2 cups mango pulp
1 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
1 1/2 teaspoons honey

INSTRUCTIONS

Place all of the ingredients in a blender. Process until thoroughly combined. 

Pour into popsicles molds.

Freeze until solid.

Spinach Pachadi (Spinach in Spiced Yogurt)

SPINACH PACHADI

Serves 4

This vibrantly flavored dish is a synch to prepare. For a simple meal, pair it with a plate of plain rice. Not looking for a main course? Let it serve  as a satisfying side. One more thing…since spinach is consistently on the Dirty Dozen list I suggest opting for organic.  

INGREDIENTS

1 (10 ounce) package frozen organic chopped spinach, thawed
2 tablespoons finely diced onions
1 tablespoon canola oil
¼ teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds
2 small dried red chilies
1 tablespoon skinned and split urad dhal (black gram)
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1¼ cups low-fat yogurt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon salt

INSTRUCTIONS

Cook the spinach and onions in a saucepan over medium heat until the water evaporates, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cool completely.

Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the red chilies and urad dhal. (For extra heat, tear the dried red chilies apart before you add them.) 

Cook until the urad dhal turns honey brown. 

Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat. 

Place the yogurt in a medium sized bowl. Stir the seasoned oil into the yogurt. 

Mix in the spinach, cumin, and salt. 

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 

Serve chilled.

Tomato Pachadi

A few blocks from my condo there’s a corner store that sells lottery tickets, liquor, and an odd mix of pantry items. Every few months, I stop by to purchase a phone card to call India. The proprietor has dense black hair and a bushy mustache (like many of my uncles). I pegged him as a Keralite at first sight. 

Not surprisingly, he looked skeptical when I mentioned my Indian roots. Nearly everyone assumes I am Hispanic (although I’ve also been dubbed Italian, Middle Eastern, and even Irish (?) over the years). He warmed up when I mentioned preparing sambar, idli, and other everyday South Indian dishes. As our conversation continued, we both waxed on about the allure of spicy food and a dreamy look covered his face. By the time I walked out, I’d earned his approval despite my Midwestern accent and fair complexion. 

A few months later I returned for another phone card.  I was looking forward to having another food-focused conversation. Perhaps he would even share some recipes. When our eyes met, the owner gave me guarded look. I mentioned being Malayalee again and he responded with disbelief, “You’re Malayalee!?!”Clearly too much time had passed since our last encounter.  

I quickly refocused the conversation on my mom’s tomato pachadi – a spicy yogurt-based dish.  His body relaxed and a warm smile covered his face. Once again, I had earned his friendship. 

TOMATO PACHADI

Serves 4

This tangy yogurt dish is best prepared with vine-ripened summer tomatoes. Because it’s full-flavored, I like to pair it with plain rice for a light, but hearty vegetarian meal.   

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons canola oil
1/4 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
1 tablespoon skinned and split urad dhal (black gram)
3/4 tablespoon minced ginger
½ cup finely chopped onions
2 small dried red chilies
1 cup finely diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 cup low-fat yogurt
¾ teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, add the urad dhal and dried red chilies and stir. (For extra heat, tear the dried red chilies apart before adding them.)

When the urad dhal turns honey brown, add the onions and ginger. Stir frequently, until the onions become translucent (about 5 minutes). 

Add the tomatoes and stir until they soften, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the cilantro and cool completely.

Place the yogurt in a medium size bowl and mix in the tomatoes. Add the salt, garlic powder, cumin, and stir. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Serve cold. 

Cucumber Tomato Salad

Cucumber Tomato Salad

Serves 6

Yogurt compliments the intensely spiced dishes that are served throughout Kerala. And so, plain or spruced up, it always finds a coveted place on the Malayalee table. This preparation calls for cucumbers, making it extra refreshing. For an elegant meal, pair it with chicken biriyani, lentil wafers, and lemon pickle.



INGREDIENTS

1 cup finely diced cucumbers
1 cup finely diced tomatoes
2 tablespoons finely diced onions
Half a small jalapeno, cut lengthwise and seeded
10 ounces low-fat yogurt
2 tablespoons low-fat sour cream (optional)
¾ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

INSTRUCTIONS

Toss the cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and jalapeno together in a large bowl.

Mix in the yogurt and sour cream.

Stir in the salt and cilantro. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 

Caramelized Onions and Swiss Cheese Sandwiches

I grew up at a time when food companies were elbowing their way into homes across America. Like many children of the 70s & 80s, I can still hum the catchy jingles that were sandwiched between The Flintstones and Looney Tunes. Our family ate Indian scratch cooking nearly every night. But with persistent pestering, I was allowed Oreo Cookies, Apple Jacks, and other packaged foods.





During the day, my sister and I ate in the school cafeteria where most meals were cooked from scratch. One of the lunch ladies was Italian-American, and once a week ate her family's recipe for spaghetti with meat sauce.





I always looked forward to field trips which called for a packed lunch. I got to sneak a peek at the things my classmates ate at home. Many kids retrieved baloney sandwiches from their lunch box. I longed to bite into a layer of the oddly uniform meat that tasted like hot dogs. But mom was fiercely opposed to baloney. She always made me a ham sandwich topped with lettuce, a slice of tomato, and a spoonful of mustard.


I rarely eat meat now. So my days of ogling at baloney in the refrigerated aisle are over. When I want to warm up this time of year, I make French onion soup. If I'm too busy to cook up soup, I toast some French bread and layer it a heaping spoonful of caramelized onions and Swiss cheese.

The Season for Chili

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

In autumn, chili becomes my comfort food of choice. I love the smell of sauteed onions and cumin blooming in the kitchen, and the way chili is such an accommodating dish. I throw in vegetables that I happen to have on hand - carrots, red bell peppers, a handful of corn for crunch. Some days I use pinto beans, on others I add a mix of kidney beans and chickpeas. Cheese and cilantro make for wonderful garnishes, but I never sweat it if I don't have them around.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

VEGETABLE CHILI

A few tips...

My cupboard is full of spice jars. If I had to choose one to take to a deserted Island, I'd reach past the coriander and cardamom for the cumin. I'm so enamored by its earthy, lemon-infused aroma that I feel remorseful cleaning my spice grinder after I blend it. Cumin brings a real finesse to chili, and if you've never ground it yourself, you're in for a sensual treat.

When fresh tomatoes disappear from the farmer's market, I cook with a supply that I stash in my freezer or I buy them canned. I recently used Muir Glen's chopped tomatoes in a pot of chili, and was amazed by their full flavor. Muir Glen is a little more expensive than other brands, but well worth the extra pennies. Watch for it to go on sale.

Some times, I add roasted bell peppers to my chili for a smoky flavor. Be sure to wash them carefully if you decide to toss them in or opt for organic, as their skins are doused with pesticides.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 cup roughly chopped onion
1 1/2 teaspoon slivered garlic
1 tablespoon freshly ground cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 cup roasted red pepper, roughly chopped
1/2 cup raw or canned corn
1 15-ounce can pinto beans
1 14.5-ounce diced tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
Pepper Jack cheese (optional)
Chopped cilantro (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oil in a medium-sized pot on medium.

Add the onions and saute for five minutes. Add the garlic, cumin, chili powder, and oregano and stir together. Cook for another 5 minutes.

Add the red peppers, corn, beans and diced tomatoes. Stir to coat with the oil and spices. Stir in salt.

Cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 25 minutes.

Top with cheese and cilantro (optional).

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Tomato and Mozzarella Sandwich

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

This time of year tomatoes can be found ripening all over the community garden. The squirrels, birds, and other critters vie for their fair share. So it's important to act fast if you want to eat any of vine-ripened fruit. I planted three heirloom tomato plants the year I got my plot. I hoped to freeze enough to last me over the winter, but ended up with half a dozen or so. The rest were poked by birds or plucked by squirrels who left a trail of the half eaten fruit into bushes. One morning, I saw a squirrel grasping a grape tomato pole to pole and feasting on it like a cob of corn. It was humbling to have worked so hard for such a small harvest. But it was also a testament to the fine taste of the animals in the garden who find no reason to pass up the sweet flavor of summer tomatoes. I resolved to raise a larger crop the next year.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

I rely on tomatoes for many dishes, including South Indian staples that require sauteing an onion, some ginger and garlic and tossing in a cup or so. In the summer, I love to eat tomatoes raw so I often use them in salads or sandwiches. Last week, I got a lovely log of mozzarella cheese and decided to throw together an Italian-style sandwich.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

I sprinkled a few slices of the cheese with salt, black pepper, garlic powder and a dash of fine French olive oil. After it had marinated for about 30 minutes, I placed the cheese on a whole wheat roll and layered it with a few leaves of fresh basil and oregano which added dimension.

Try to find fresh oregano if you've never had it. It has a subtle yet refined taste and provides more anti-oxidants that any other herb. Also, if all you have is mature basil consider blanching it as suggested by Saveur to temper the strong taste of licorice. Next year, I plan to plant my basil later in the spring so I can feast on tomatoes and younger basil.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Finally, I chopped up a handful of cherry tomatoes and layered them on top. I ended up with a sandwich so full-flavored that I couldn't resist eating half of it standing next to the cutting board.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Mediterranean Goodness

MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE SPAGHETTI SQUASH

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

1 medium spaghetti squash

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, roughly chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 14.5 ounce can of diced tomatoes, drained

1/4 cup sliced Kalamata olives

1/2 cup feta cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.  

Cut the spaghetti squash lengthwise and remove the seeds.  Place the cut sides face down on a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil. Bake for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large skillet on medium heat. Add the onions and garlic. Saute until the onions become tender. Stir in the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the olives.   

Use a fork to remove the meat of the squash. Mix into the sauteed vegetables. Garnish with the feta.