Slice and Dice: Chili Peppers

My mom is a sorcerer in the kitchen. She uses spices like potions, never measuring anything out. A pinch of  turmeric goes here. A palm full of  coriander goes there. Then she tosses in a little bit of cardamom. Thanks to her culinary prowess, we sit down to an enchanting array of dishes - Beef Cutlets, Chicken Biryani, Mung Bean Pudding - that seem to have magically appeared. 

When I started recreating my mom's recipes, I was surprised to find that there was one ingredient I could never leave out: chili peppers. They add spunk to curries, stir-fries, and casseroles, but more importantly they bring out the flavor of other ingredients, like a good team player. Any time I excluded them, a dish would fall flat. If you're sensitive to heat, use the tips below to dial it back. Affordable and available year-round, I suggest you keep a steady supply in the kitchen. 

How to Select

Chili peppers continue to ripen after they are harvested and many become hotter as they mature. Their color also deepens or changes. Jalapeños, for example, go from green to red as they age. If you’re looking for maximum heat, select darker chili peppers from the bunch. Taut, shiny skin is a sign of freshness. Avoid soft, wrinkled chili peppers that look like they could use a boost of Botox.

How to Remove the Seeds and Inner Tissue

Chili peppers get their kick from capsaicin, a chemical concentrated in the spongy inner tissue and seeds. Since capsaicin has an irritating affect, avoid touching any part of your face (especially your eyes) when prepping chili peppers. If you have sensitive skin, be sure to wear gloves. During clean-up, carefully wash your hands and kitchen equipment with soapy water to cleanse away any capsaicin that may  linger behind.

Chili peppers can be prepped with the capsaicin-laden tissues and seeds intact. If you want to dial down the heat, use these simple steps to remove them:

Thoroughly wash and dry the chili pepper. Lay it on its side on a cutting board and use a chef’s knife to slice off the stem end. 

Slice the chili pepper in half lengthwise.

Place one half of the chili pepper on the cutting board with the cut side facing up. Slide the tip of the knife under the tissue and carefully cut it away from the inner wall of the chili pepper without cutting through the flesh.

Use your fingers or the tip of the knife to scrape out the seeds.

How to Chop

Lay one half of the trimmed, deseeded chili pepper on a cutting board skin side down. Cut it in thick slices lengthwise.

Rotate the slices 90 degrees and cut across them widthwise.

How to Julienne

Lay one half of the trimmed, deseeded chili pepper on a cutting board skin side down. Cut it in thin slices lengthwise.

How to Mince

Lay one half of the trimmed, deseeded chili pepper on a cutting board skin side down. Cut it in thin slices lengthwise In culinary school, this is called a julienne. 

Rotate the slices 90 degrees and cut across the slices widthwise.

Spicing Things Up

The Dietary Guidelines of America were released earlier this month. Tucked in the 500-plus page report is a call for the use of spices in lieu of salt. I had hoped they would get greater mention as I rely on spices to enliven everything I eat. Oatmeal? Check. Smoothies? Check. Soup? All the time! It's a practice I learned from my immigrant Indian mother. The antioxidant-rich nuggets of flavor enhance texture. Consider pepper encrusted steak. They also blanket dishes with a lovely layer of color. Saffron, for instance, gives paella a golden glow. Unlike many other flavor boosters, spices have few calories - yet another reason to layer them on!

Are you interested in learning more about spices in the New Year? Start with our quick quiz.

1.) A teaspoon of of garlic has ____ calories.

    a) 12

    b) 4

    c) 10

    d) 8

2.) ______ is referred to as the "queen of spices."

    a) Saffron

    b) Cardamom

    c) Vanilla

    d) Turmeric

3.) _____ is referred to as the "king of spices."

    a) Saffron

    b) Mustard seeds

    c) Tamarind

    d) Black pepper

4.) Coriander and ____ are from the same plant.

    a) Cilantro

    b) Parsley

    c) Thyme

    d) Rosemary

5.) Tamarind is a key ingredient in ______.

    a) Mustard

    b) Ketchup

    c) Mayonnaise

    d) Worcestershire Sauce

6) _____ is referred to as "devil's dung" because of its pungent odor.

    a) Turmeric

    b) Allspice

    c) Asafoetida

    d) Cardamom

7) _______ is the world's most expensive spice.

    a) Saffron

    b) Cardamom

    c) Vanilla

    d) Mustard seeds

8) Studies have found that _______ can help to regulate blood sugar.

    a) Allspice

    b) Curry leaves

    c) Cinnamon

    d) Amchur

Want to learn more? Click here for tips on how to find high quality spices. Learn how to cook with them. Also, be sure to visit the Cardamom Kitchen Spice Center on Pinterest.

Answer key:

1.) b 

2.) b

3.) d

4.) a

5.) d

6.) c

7.) a

8.) c

Cooking with Coriander Seeds

 

During my first year at the community garden, I planted cilantro for Honey, my spunky, produce-loving bunny.  She enjoyed sprigs of the tender herb throughout the summer. By September, it started to look tired and spindly, and I turned my attention to the local farmer’s market.  During the weeks that followed, the plants’ scalloped leaves turned feathery. Teensy-weensy white flowers appeared, eventually morphing into green pods. Then, as if by magic, the pods turned as tan as a paper bag and formed ridged. I was elated…nature had gifted me with, coriander seeds, a spice essential to my repertoire of recipes.

Coriander seeds are used to flavor delectable non-vegetarian Indian dishes including Spicy Fried Beef, Beef Cutlets, Kerala Beef Puffs, and my Mom’s Chicken Biryani. They are also a key ingredient in Sambar Powder, a dynamic masala used to season my all-time favorite comfort food. You will always find a jarful tucked alongside cardamom pods, turmeric, mustard seeds, cinnamon sticks, asafoetida, and tamarind in my cupboard. 

Purchasing Coriander Seeds

Like most spices, coriander seeds should be purchased whole. Once ground, they begin to lose their robust flavor, much like a pricked balloon seeps out air. Be aware that coriander seeds and cilantro (the beloved and oft despised herb it produces) can both be referred to as coriander in Indian recipes and ethnic markets. (Not sure if that is something else to pin on the British?) Either way, do not substitute one for the other as their flavors are dramatically different. Coriander seeds are warm and nutty while cilantro has a fresh, slightly grassy taste.

Cooking with Coriander

Coriander seeds are encased in a basket-like husk, which acts as a thickener in moist dishes, such as Sambar. For added texture when coating meat or fish, grind them roughly rather than pulverizing them into a powder. To heighten the seed’s flavor, dry roast them in a heavy bottomed pan before you grind them. 

 



























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Cooking with Asafoetida

If you’re new to Indian cooking, chances are you have yet to use asafoetida – an ingredient integral in the South. Brace yourself as your initial encounter will be jarring. Remember the dust cloud that encircled Charlie Brown’s friend Pig Pen? Well, times that by two and it will seem like a bouquet of roses next to this oh-so-stinky spice. Not convinced? Asafoetida’s sulfuric stench is so strong that it’s also called devil’s dung. Really, it’s that stinky!

So, why, you may ask would anyone consume such an off-putting ingredient? For several surprisingly sensible reasons! First, asafoetida goes from acrid to full-flavored when cooked, and takes on the unique flavor of onions, garlic, and perfectly popped popcorn. Some even pick up the notes of truffles. It also blends well with other spices, magically rounding them out. Sambar (vegetable stew), for example, wouldn’t be sambar without the unifying spice.

Asafoetida is also used to prevent gassiness caused by eating cooked beans, peas, and lentils. Take a close look at the ingredients in urad dhal pappadam (lentil wafers) and you’ll find it listed there. It’s also a key ingredient in many pickles and chutneys. 

Purchasing Asafoetida

Asafoetida is stocked in the spice section of most Indian grocery stores. It is sold powdered, in crystal-like chunks and as a paste. I opt for the powder, which is easiest to find and simple to use. 

Cooking with Asafoetida

Asafoetida is typically sauteed in a fat, such as coconut oil, to round out and mellow its flavor. It pairs well with brown mustard seeds, curry leaves, and dried chilies.  

Cooking with Cinnamon Sticks

Earlier this week, I placed a few pears in a pot with a pinch of ground cinnamon, splash of water, and smidge of brown sugar, and left it to cook over low heat. A few doors down, I moored myself to my laptop determined to do some work. Within minutes, the how-do-I-love thee scent (or should I say how-doth-though-love me allure) of stewing cinnamon filled the room, and I felt transported to the safety of my mom’s womb. Really my friends, that is what cinnamon does for me.  

Obviously, my love for the sweet spice is deep. During the gray winter months, I use it as a talisman to ward off the blues, stirring it into hot cocoa, layering it in oatmeal, and dusting it onto buttered toast along with a bit of sugar.  Cinnamon is my secret ingredient in fudge brownies, chocolate cake, and chocolate chip cookies. 

Cinnamon is also one of my favorite flavors in savory South Indian dishes. In Kerala, Syrian Christians use cinnamon sticks to flavor egg and meat dishes along side cardamom and cloves. For me, the three “Cs” (cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves) offer an unrivaled mix of warmth, punch, and sweetness. I keep a stockpile of cinnamon sticks in my pantry. 

Purchasing Cinnamon 

In the U.S., the spice sold as cinnamon is often really cassia, it’s botanical cousin. Cinnamon and cassia both come from the bark of evergreen trees. However, cassia sticks (pictured below on the left below) are thicker than cinnamon (on the right). 

Cassia is also darker in color and stronger in flavor than cinnamon due to a higher concentration of volatile oils. You can see below that the ground cinnamon on the left is several shades lighter than the ground cassia. 

In my experience, cinnamon has a much more nuanced flavor than cassia and, brings the dynamism of a symphony to a dish rather than the tone of one well-played instrument. However, cinnamon is hard to find outside of specialty spice stores (though it’s worth visiting one to learn the difference). In addition, because of it’s bold flavor cassia can stand its ground next to cloves and other bossy spices. For these reasons, I generally use cassia when cooking Indian food, and refer to it as cinnamon in recipes as is the general practice.

Cooking with Cinnamon Sticks

Kerala cooking involves the layering of flavors. Cinnamon sticks are often used to season hot oil. Onions, ginger, and other aromatics, which are sauteed in the oil, become the base for meat dishes and rice pilaf. Cinnamon sticks are also combined with water to stew beef.

 

Cooking with Mustard Seeds

My Aunt Iysha (pictured above with her grandson Sean) makes the loveliest lemon pickle. Tart and tangy, it’s the perfect accompaniment to freshly steamed white rice. To show affection, she often sends guests off with a bottle of the potent condiment.

In 2008, my sister traveled through Bangalore airport with a jar of the pickle in her carry-on luggage. As she inched her way toward security, she caught sight of a large sign banning FIREARMS, SHARP OBJECTS, AEROSOLES, and…PICKLE. She obediently, though regretfully, pulled out Iyshakochamma’s beloved gift upon reaching the counter. The airport clerk confirmed that she couldn’t take the pickle on board. Before my sister could throw it out, he asked where she got it. She explained that it was a gift from her aunt. To her surprise, he offered to take it home, insisting that it shouldn’t go to waste.

Like so many Malayalee specialties, pickle gets some of it’s punch and a bit of crunch from brown mustard seeds. The tiny, gray-purple seeds are related to the yellow variety that is pulverized to produce ballpark mustard. However, brown mustard seeds are smaller than yellow ones and have a stronger flavor. They are available in the bulk spice section of most Indian grocery stores.

 

Whole mustard seeds must be heated to release their pungent flavor. In Kerala, they are commonly “popped” in hot oil using a process that’s akin to making fresh popcorn. Oil is heated and the mustard seeds are added. As the seeds release their moisture, they start a riot, ricocheting off the bottom and sides of the pan. Aromatics, such as chopped onions, ginger, and garlic, are often added to produce a chutney or a vegetable sauté.

Mustard seeds are also used to flavor oil with dried hot pepper and curry leaves, which is stirred into stews, such as sambar (pictured below). 

Mustard seeds cook quickly and burn easily, producing a bitter taste. Typically one or two seeds will pop and, after a few seconds, the rest will start to shoot about. Once that starts to happen, watch them carefully. Quickly move on to the next step, whether it’s adding onions or removing the seasoned oil from the heat, after about a fourth of the mustard seeds have popped.

Cooking with Turmeric

Flora in Jolly Auntie’s Yard

In Kerala, every vantage point is awash with color. From the sandy coastline to the towering mountains, the earth gives birth to the full spectrum of green. Peppercorn vines ravel around straight-backed shade trees. Moss inhabits even the finest cracks. Airy coconut palms hover over tangles of yellow-green grass, low-growing rice plants, and glossy tea leaves that blanket the ground. Hibiscus and ripe bananas fight for attention alongside yellow-capped rickshaws and ruby red buses proclaiming “Jesus is Lord.”  

Turning Potatoes and Cabbage into Gold

As if not to be outdone, turmeric brings a golden glow to the table. It is native to Kerala, and during my last trip to there, I yanked a huge hunk of the underground stem from my cousin’s yard. At first glance, turmeric can be mistaken for ginger, but beneath its drab brown skin, lies crunchy, carrot-colored flesh that blends the freshness of dill with the earthiness of black pepper.  

 

Traditionally, turmeric has been used for medicinal and culinary purposes in India. When I was bitten by a perturbed ant during my vacation, my cousin quickly prepared a turmeric paste to help reduce the swelling. A significant number of studies have found that curcumin, the powerful antioxidant present in turmeric, helps to guard against inflammation linked to type 2 diabetes, cancer, and heart disease.  

Banana Chips, K.K. Road, Kottayam

I grew up eating turmeric in the South Indian dishes my Mom prepared, day in and day out, and I include it in nearly every savory dish that I cook up, Indian or not. I prefer to use fresh turmeric, which can be prepped just like ginger, with one exception. The juice from turmeric stains everything it touches – cutting boards, counters, fingers! Some people prefer to wear gloves to keep their hands protected from its highlighter yellow. I also always have dried turmeric on hand, which wins the prize when it comes to ease of use. It has an earthier, slightly bitter flavor and, in general, a little goes a long way. 

Making Spicy Fried Potato Balls (Bonda)

Seasoning Mild Fish Curry (Mappas)

Another thing to consider when cooking with turmeric is that curcumin, the powerful antioxidant I mentioned earlier, isn’t easily absorbed by the body. The good news is that you can change that by pairing turmeric with black pepper and oil and heating it up. Here are ten simple ways to combine all three and increase the bioavailability of curcumin:

-   Coat chicken with turmeric, olive oil, and ground black pepper before baking it

-   Coat vegetables with turmeric, olive oil, and ground black pepper before roasting them

-   Add turmeric and ground black pepper to the vegetables you sauté for chili

-   Add turmeric and ground black pepper to the vegetables you sauté for pasta sauce
- Add turmeric and ground black pepper to the vegetables you sauté for omelets.

-   Add turmeric and ground black pepper to the vegetables you sauté for soup

-   Add turmeric and ground pepper to your favorite stir-fry

-   Include turmeric and ground pepper when you blacken catfish

-   Include turmeric, ground pepper, and a little olive oil when you bake salmon 

-   Include turmeric and ground pepper in marinades.



Cooking with Cardamom

When strangers learn about my South Indian roots, nine out of ten of them will tell me that they love Indian food. Then, in their next breathe, they confess to being overwhelmed by the unusual ingredients and prospect of cooking it. I know where they are coming from having been daunted by the task of selecting fish sauce or olive oil from a dizzying collection of bottles crammed on a store shelf. If it were possible, I would escort each and every one of them down the aisles of my favorite Indian grocery stores, past the fiber-rich lentils, the spunky chutneys, and the mesmerizing array of spices. But alas, it's not. So I've decided to dedicate one post each month to arm my readers with knowledge of the Kerala pantry before they venture out with a shopping list. I'll begin with cardamom.

Although my paternal grandfather was a lawyer by training, he also managed cardamom estates that had been passed down from his father. The cardamom grew in remote regions of the Western Ghatts. Several times a year, he would visit the estates accompanied by the men that tended the land. Much of the surrounding region was uninhabited, and they had to trek through thick forest where tigers, wild boar, and a hearty collection of poisonous snakes loved to tread. When daylight fell, they lit torches to lead the way. 

After the cardamom was harvested and dried, bulging sacks of the spice crowded the hallway of my father's childhood home. Most of it was delivered to S. K. Nadar, a wholesale dealer who possessed the sole license to export cardamom out of South India at the time. The rest found a place in my grandmother's pantry.

When my parents immigrated to the U.S., they carried along their love of the home grown spice. I grew up eating cardamom in chicken biryani, dry beef curry, and other heavily spiced meat dishes. My mom threw pinches of the potent spice in mung dhal pudding (payasm), pan-fried plantains, donuts soaked in syrup (gulab jaman), and other desserts she recreated from memory.

When I started to cook on my own, I wanted to harness cardamom's seductive, floral flavor. Here are the things I have learned after spending years cooking my mom's cardamom laden dishes.

Purchasing Cardamom

Unless otherwise specified, always buy green cardamom (sometimes referred to as small cardamom) to use in Kerala cooking. It has a complex flavor that compliments both sweet and savory dishes. Look for small football-shaped pods which have a green tint. They should smell like a potpourri of pine and flowers. Avoid black cardamom which has larger brownish pods. It has a less dynamic flavor and is rarely used in Kerala.

Buy cardamom pods instead of ground cardamom whenever possible. The whole spice stays potent for a year (or longer) and the seeds nestled inside the pods can be ground quickly with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. (More on this below). Ground cardamom, by contrast, loses its flavor rapidly.

Although cardamom is the third most expensive spice after saffron and vanilla, most recipes call for a teaspoon at the very most, making it far less expensive than a souped up cup of coffee. The small pods grow near the ground and ripen at different intervals. Harvesting them is nuanced, backbreaking work.

Cooking with Cardamom

Like other spices, cardamom can be used whole or ground. The pods must be heated to release the essential oils in the seeds. I like to saute them in oil with cloves and cinnamon and then simmer them with basmati rice to produce a delicious pilaf.

If you need to use cardamom on its own, I recommend powdering it in a mortar and pestle instead of a spice grinder (or coffee grinder strictly designated for spices). The waxy seeds will orbit around the blade of a spice grinder like a carnival goer on a carousel and end up roughly chopped at best. Opt for a mortar and pestle made of stone or marble. The metal versions don't offer any traction. The seeds will slide around and you'll want to pull out your hair.

To powder the cardamom:

- Crack open the pods with the pestle
- Pick out the papery husks
- Grind the pebbly seeds

I prefer to use a spice grinder when I grind cardamom with other spices. The spices should fill the grinder's base a third of the way or more. With sufficient traction, the cardamom will not escape the blade.

Like my mom, I don't bother to remove the papery pods. They powder easily and do not affect the flavor or texture of the spice mix.

If you need to grind a smaller quantity of spices, I recommend either: 1) removing the papery pods, which will otherwise whirl around the blade unscathed and, powdering them in the spice grinder with the other spices or 2) powdering the cardamom in a mortar and pestle first and then adding it to a spice grinder with other spices before grinding them together.

Complimentary IngredientsHere is a list of ingredients I love to pair with cardamom.

Rose water
Cloves and cinnamon
Ginger and cumin
Cashew nuts and coconut
Almonds

Storing and Grinding Spices

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

In our last conversation, I shared tips to help you find full-flavored spices. In this post, I'll share insights I've learned from family and friends on storing and preparing spices.

Air, moisture, and light all cause the essential oils in spices to degrade and their flavors to fade, like a hosta in the hot sun. To preserve the earthy smell of cumin, the citrus notes in coriander, and the honey-ish undertones in saffron, follow these simple steps:

- Store your spices in airtight containers. You really don't need to buy swanky bottles. All the cooks in my family store spices in recycled jars that once held jam or pickled vegetables or condiments. Be sure to air out jars that once held vinegar and other feisty ingredients. My mom insists that labels on old jars be removed and, readily institutes that policy when she visits me. I think the labels gives the jars character, and prefer to leave them on. Potato, poe-tah-toe.

- If you buy spice jars, select glass or ceramic containers instead of metal ones, which can leave an off-flavor on spices. Make sure that the lids are airtight. Some of the sexy looking cork lids are not.

- Keep spices in a cool, dark place like a pantry or a drawer. Try not to store them near the stove as heat strips spices of their essential oils. Also, avoid storing spices in the refrigerator. It exposes them to humidity, which also saps their flavor.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Now a little about grinding spices.

First and foremost, invest in a pepper mill. Please no ifs, ands, or buts. Using pre-ground pepper (that's been sitting on the shelf for who knows how long) is like eating a glorious meal with a stuffed nose. Freshly cracked pepper, on the other hand, brings a warm, lemony pleasure to eggs, soup, and other everyday dishes. You will be amazed how much using a pepper mill pleases your taste buds.

During my recent trip to India, I watched my aunt's cook Shantha blend spices under the weight of a heavy stone rolling pin that she ran across a black stone tablet. Once a common fixture in Kerala kitchens, the stone grinders are steadily being replaced with (much less cardio intensive) electric coffee grinders. The last time my parent's visited Kerala, I bought four Brauns on Devon Avenue for them to present as gifts. (Curiously, the closer I stepped to the exit, the lower their price fell.)

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Some insist on grinding spices with a mortar and pestle, but I grew up with the ever-present buzz of a coffee grinder. Coffee grinders produce a finer powder and incorporate spice mixes more thoroughly than a mortar and pestle. Opt for a mortar and pestle if you are blending spices with fresh ingredients, including herbs. Use a mortar with a porous base so spices and herbs don't slide around as you try to crush them.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

To purge your coffee grinder of lingering aromas, pulverize a few grains of uncooked rice in it between uses. You can also whirl around pieces of bread.

Susan Pachikara (COPYRIGHT 2011)

Many fall desserts call for the warm flavor of nutmeg. If a recipes calls for a small quantity of the potent spice, use a micro grater (or the smallest hole of your box grater) to prepare it. Store the rest of the seed in a airtight container for your next sauce or pumpkin pie.